Okay, this is Africa and I can tell you, IT ISN’T ANYTHING LIKE BUSH GARDENS! Actually, we did have some camels meet us at the port and that made me feel like I was at Bush Gardens but, it was pretty much downhill from there.
I’m glad we stopped here because we got a feeling for their culture and living conditions but I have no desire to ever go back.
We did a ship’s tour because we had heard it was best to stay with a group and not try to go out on your own. Tunis is the capital city and a huge place. It really just stretches as far as the eye can see.
We rode the tour bus into the center of Tunis to the souk, or bazaar in Medina which is the “old town”.
It is a vast conglomeration of rug weavers, gold merchants, spice shops and souvenir (aka junk) shops which according to the brochures, “captures the essence of the city, right down to its thickly intoxicating air”. Well said, because the whole city is pretty much like that. You must remember that this is a Muslim/Arabic country and if you are there – you definitely don’t forget it. You rarely see women out and about, no women working in any of the shops and the Muslim men really don’t even acknowledge the women unless they are trying to sell you something of course. . I must first describe this souk in more detail in order for you to get the true feel of it. You enter into what appears to be a courtyard with shops all around the perimeter;
but, as you leave the courtyard, you travel through a labyrinth of very narrow, enclosed walkways with shops on either side. Not only do you have all the people in there who are “shopping” but you have the merchants standing outside their doorways trying to pull you in. The guide had told us we could go off on our own and shop but we just didn’t feel comfortable doing that.
So, we let him lead us through the souk to the rug merchant (must have been his brother-in-law) for our first stop. (At this point, we didn’t dare leave because we couldn’t have found our way out) This was really strange; everyone was led up these winding stairs to the top floor of the rug merchant where we sat on benches around the perimeter of the room (probably about 30 of us). At that point, orders were taken for some kind of African mint tea or Turkish coffee. We reluctantly sampled a taste of each, both being VERY sweet; in fact, the coffee was almost syrupy. Back to the rugs – the rug merchant comes out and tells all about the craftsmanship and materials of the rugs and then he has his underlings to start bringing out the rugs and rolling them out in the middle of the room. They seemed to be having a disagreement on what rugs to bring out when and I thought they were going to have a knock down, drag out fight right there. But, they worked it out, rolled out about 40 rugs and then proceeded to try and drum up some buyers. The cheapest price I heard was $250 and that was for a small bedside rug. Don’t think anyone bought.
After that, our guide led us down through the maze to a souvenir shop where he said we could browse around for about an hour, then he took off.
Bob and I were finished browsing in about 2 minutes so we just stood around for the rest of the time. After about 75 minutes, the guide shows up again to the grand applause of everyone because we were more than ready to go. He leads us out to the little square we first came into and handed us over to the gold merchants. (Like you would really buy any “gold” from these people?) Bob and I decided to take our chances and go look for our bus. WHAT AN ORDEAL!
Finally, the guide decided it was time to move on. We headed to Sidi Bou Said which is supposedly the nicer area around Tunis and I guess it is because that is where the king or whatever he is has his palace. We drove by the ruins of Carthage
,which really weren’t that impressive, and headed up to Sidi Bou Said which was touted in the cruise propaganda as an “artist’s village” set high on a cliff overlooking the Gulf of Tunis,
with pretty blue and white sugar cubed houses scattered across the hillside. Okay, I’ll grant the houses were like sugar cubes and they were blue and white, and it was on a hill. I missed the artist’s village and the pretty part. I do have to admit it was on a hill and the view from up there was incredible (pics to follow). In fact, you really couldn’t tell how dirty everything was from up there so it was quite nice.
I did forget to mention all the mosques everywhere and we were there on Friday, their holy day. It gave you a very eerie feeling when the chants would begin for all good muslims to head to the mosque for prayer. We drove by one of the largest mosques in Tunis just as they were exiting from their prayers and it was amazing to see all the men (some women) leaving the mosque.
Back on ship, and glad of it. Will definitely put a comment for the cruise line to reconsider this stop. We really haven’t spoken to anyone who truly enjoyed the stop in Tunis. Well, I can say I’ve been there.
Tomorrow – Valletta, Malta


